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Eat Here: Reclaiming Homegrown Pleasures in a Global Supermarket (The Worldwatch Environmental Alert Series) Paperback – November 17, 2004
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Eating locally is a growing movement that is good for your health―but even better for the planet.
Everyone everywhere depends increasingly on long-distance food. Since 1961 the tonnage of food shipped between nations has grown fourfold. In the United States, food typically travels between 1,500 and 2,500 miles from farm to plate―as much as 25 percent farther than in 1980. For some, the long-distance food system offers unparalleled choice. But it often runs roughshod over local cuisines, varieties, and agriculture, while consuming staggering amounts of fuel, generating greenhouse gases, eroding the pleasures of face-to-face interactions, and compromising food security. Fortunately, the long-distance food habit is beginning to weaken under the influence of a young, but surging, local-foods movement. From peanut-butter makers in Zimbabwe to pork producers in Germany and rooftop gardeners in Vancouver, entrepreneurial farmers, start-up food businesses, restaurants, supermarkets, and concerned consumers are propelling a revolution that can help restore rural areas, enrich poor nations, and return fresh, delicious, and wholesome food to cities.- Print length256 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherW. W. Norton & Company
- Publication dateNovember 17, 2004
- Dimensions5.5 x 0.8 x 8.2 inches
- ISBN-100393326640
- ISBN-13978-0393326642
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In the first part of the book, author Brian Halweil clearly identifies the many failures of our current way of eating. The long distance transport of food is a major contributor to climate change. Instead of the tastiest fruits and vegetables, supermarkets stock those most amenable to shipping. Family farms are disappearing at an alarming rate, killing rural communities in the process. Water supplies and fisheries are contaminated by agribusinesses whose poor crop rotation practices ensure that much of the fertilizer they apply cannot be absorbed into the soil. The list goes on.
Halweil then lays out a cogent plan for remaking the system. The key for him is rebuilding markets for local food, and he suggests a partnership between consumers and local farmers to achieve this. The first step is for consumers to start demanding local food with their voices and their dollars. This argument, in my view, is "Eat Here's" biggest strength, for it emphasizes that consumers, who often see themselves as anonymous actors in a macroeconomic world, can be powerful agents of change. For those concerned about the money cost of food (that is, nearly everyone in these tough economic times), Halweil makes two important points. First, many local products are cheaper than their national counterpart is because local farming usually cuts out the middleman and fuel costs. Second, if consumers start demanding local products, even goods that are more expensive than their national counterpart will become cheaper as more suppliers enter the market.
Halweil then turns his attention to farmers. He argues that to ensure their viability, small farmers must start seeing themselves as entrepreneurs and seize the sizable post-harvest profits available in their food. (The most astonishing fact in the book is that for every dollar spent on bread in the U.S., farmers get 6 cents, the same amount as the company that makes the wrapper. The rest is going to firms up the distribution chain.) The money in agriculture is in what happens after a product leaves the farm, and Halweil offers suggestions to farmers on how to capture this money. In short, the answer lies beyond the farmer's market in farmer-owned facilities to process, distribute, and sell agricultural products.
"Eat Here" is a thoughtful take on a very important problem. Even those who already take their food seriously would benefit from reading it.
