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Ukraine, 2nd: The Bradt Travel Guide Paperback – March 1, 2007
| Andrew Evans (Author) Find all the books, read about the author, and more. See search results for this author |
There is a newer edition of this item:
- Print length464 pages
- LanguageEnglish
- PublisherBradt Travel Guides
- Publication dateMarch 1, 2007
- ISBN-101841621811
- ISBN-13978-1841621814
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In one very important area--toilets, public and otherwise--both our versions were severely out-of-date and caused a great deal of nervousness before we left which we could have been totally spared. In fact, in every hotel, restaurant and public place we visited, the restroom facilities we used were 100% clean and in many cases the standard exceeded those in some public places in the US. Furthermore and even more to the point, in complete contradiction to what was mentioned in the guide, not once in our two-week tour that covered Lviv, Kiev and Odessa, did we find a toilet where we needed to stand on metal footprints and squat. While I admit this is a small part of a very large book, I believe nobody will deny the importance of this information being correct.
A note about threats, theft, etc. While it is true we stuck largely to the centers of the major cities and did not venture off the beaten track except in a car or with a guide, nothing was stolen from our rooms (which usually had a safe) and at no time did we feel threatened or in danger of any kind any more than we do while walking around in New York or London.
So although these versions do contain a great deal of important information, I must question whether their age should be marked in some very prominent way, if not discontinued, as the outdated information can be extremely misleading in very important ways.
It is a travel guide in the truest sense of the word. There's a definite emphasis on pragmatic travel information, at the slight expense of cultural and historical context that some readers particularly enjoy. It's not a text-rich cultural guide, a la Rough Guides, but a directory of good places to spend your time and money. The best part? It's accurate and authentic. You have the locals in your hand with this book, and you're armed with the kind of information that will make your visit to Ukraine rich, rewarding and real. The book leaves most of the historic context for you to discover on your own, but it points you in the right direction so you're not overwhelmed. There's a 100-page introduction to the country that is particularly good. The authors have written this section as something of a "culture shock" essay intended to give you the real, irreverent portrait of the country, with plenty of concise information that makes you feel like you're ready to relocate to Ukraine. They've painted the picture perfectly.
The truly startling city of Lviv, former capital of Polish Galicia, gets special treatment, and should be on every itinerary in Ukraine. Visitors from crystal-clear Scandinavia or baroque central Europe may wonder what all the Lviv hype is about. Here's the thing: It's not just about frilly architecture. It's about recognizing that Lviv was once an enormously diverse, poly-ethnic, Austro-Hungarian frontier town, and it's essentially intact. Prague may be cleaner, but it's also more homogeneous. Lviv's position on the margins, rather than in the center of everything, is the source of its intrigue. Go there.
There's more to this difficult country than Kiev and Chernobyl. Get out and see the places preserved in a pre-communist time warp (such as Lviv) before the word gets out and they become another stop on the expensive Prague, Krakow, Budapest, Vienna tour.
For example Bradt says that it's possible to travel on $75 a day - okay granted one should assume that amount is closer to $100 a day with inflation in the Euro and the cheapening of the dollar. The problem at least in Kiev - a very cosmopolitan city, is that many of the restaurants mentioned will cost you between $70 and $100 for a nice meal. By the way Georgian wine is very good and is available locally for about $8 a bottle so a glass of wine in a restaurant should not cost more than about $7 - my tip for those who read this! Also the local beers are all very nice and cost next to nothing - about $1 a bottle. There was not an effort to break down restaurants by cost range as was done with the hotels - most other guides I've used in the past do this and I find it really helpful. I was hoping for some new restaurant finds! And any restaurant that accepts major credit cards is in this class so beware if you're using this guide. Also, my specific need was for places to see that are close by but there was very little in that section for Kiev.
Overall, I think there are better guides although not quite as new. One very good point is the availability of apartments at reasonable prices. With public transportation very reasonable - that means cheap!, all you really need to know is what bus/tram to hoop on to get you to either the nearest Metro or somewhere central like Independence Square.
If you aren't sure about coming to Kiev/Kyiv, I want to tell you that I highly recommend it - the city is beautiful and the people are very nice. Ukraine is a big country and also very nice - I've been to the Black sea and to the Carpathian mountains so far and enjoyed them both although for very different reasons.
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On the ground the guide allows the traveller to access the main sights, although I would prefer better maps which tend to be too small and do not include all the sights I wanted to see. The style of english also is sometimes confusing....the lviv ghetto is remembered by the railway bridge on.... remembered near would have been better.
A big help would be if the place names were also written in cyrillic, so you could point to them and ask someone where to go, hopeless in that regard in a place where latin script is not used.
A good guide but even better if more pictures, detailed maps and better labelling.
As it is difficult to find many tourist information centres in Crimea, even if you speak some of the language and as all exhibitions are in Russian we relied on the guide book to tell us the story of the site which not always provided that information (though this may be a bit too high an expectation).
The book was last updated in Jan 2007 so most of the prices have gone up since then, generally by around 50% for entrances and a bit less for hotel prices. There was one hotel in Sevastopol that was meant to have luxury and "standard Soviet" rooms, the latter being within our budget. It was a bit embarassing when we walked into the marbled reception area of the 3-star hotel with the minimum price being at least 3 times our budget... But after meeting some other backpackers who did exactly the same I assume the hotel crew must be used to this by now.
I normally travel with a Lonely Planet guide and this was the first Bradt book I bought - overall I found this one lacking the detail a lot more often than the Lonely Planet.
The actual guide part of the book, 313 pages, does contain a lot of useful travel advice - details of hotels, transport advice, what to see and do. Confusingly the country map didn't reflect the organisation of the book.
This book is suited to reading all about a place before deciding to go, but rather long-winded to lug from town to town.

