Customer Review

Reviewed in the United States on June 8, 2020
The PTFE tubing shipped with your 3d printer can get the job done...for a while. Capricorn tubing is considered THE standard in 3d printing tubing. I have 2 printers, a Sovol SV01 and a Creality CR-10 S5 and they have both benefited from this worthy upgrade.
The package comes with between 39 and 40 inches of tubing (was hard for me to measure), along with 4 Bowden connectors, a great tubing cutter, and a Capricorn card that was thick cardboard, and I wasn't sure if it was to be used as a weapon, z bed offset, or what. Anyway, I didn't try the Bowden connectors so I can't opine if they are an upgrade or same as OEM - 2 were smaller (for the extruder) and 2 were larger (leading to the hot end).
I first used a whopping 19 mm of the tubing for my Sovol guide - on at least my original hotend, if you didn't use this little piece you simply could not print TPU - retractions would cause it to bunch up. 19 mm later, i had a short guide tube between the extruder entry/guide and the heat break top. It did make it SLIGHTLY harder to feed in PLA or other filaments, after a while you get the hang of it.
Later, when I had a nice clog, i had to open the hot end completely (I recommend fiddling with your hot end as little as possible, those thermistor wires are EXTREMELY fragile). Anyway, you can see in the 4th photo, how the end of my 24.8 mm tubing was burned at the end. Per the website, Capricorn XS tubing's melting point is "up to 340" where OEM tubing can be as low as 220, and their TL tubing (which I've never seen) has a melting point up to 300.
I generally print my Sovol SV01 at between 220 and 250 depending upon material. The Capricorn tubing has a curve to it from shipping, and when you want it straight it can fight you a bit, but should relax and straighten with time.
Since I have installed the tubing in my Sovol, I've had virtually no jams, and I'm confident the higher temps won't break down the tubing. Note, if you want to print nylon or other high temp materials, the Capricorn tubing will break down, so for those you need an all metal hot end (which can be more prone to clogging for PLA, PETG, etc.)
Regarding my CR-10 S5, the machine is still shiny, and I've only printed about 20 hours with it, but I made an "executive decision" - I don't like Bowden tubes. The Capricorn tubing would make a worthy upgrade versus the factory tubing - it is narrower, more precise, and has internal lubricants that allow material to move better - but I personally liken the Bowden tube design, like trying to light a match from a matchbox that is 4 or more feet away. Note, some folks say you can print better quality prints with a Bowden design - less weight on the head, etc. and you can dial in the settings - and I don't disagree - but for ME, direct drive is the name of the game. I converted my S5 to a direct drive, and replaced the Bowden tube in the hot end (similar to the Sovol 24.8 mm piece) with the 68.7mm piece shown in the photo.
The included tubing cutter is a sharp razor type of blade that will destroy you if you aren't careful - however, if you mark the tubing with a magic marker or similar, you can cut that mark directly in half if you desire - it is accurate, and more importantly, it doesn't crush the tube.
As a trial, i used sharp wire cutters, and they cut but deformed the tube - the tubing cutter was able to snip off the deformed part and make it snug again. I would only use the tubing cutter for Capricorn or PTFE tubing, so it stays nice and sharp.
Even if you use the Capricorn as a Bowden tube, you will have plenty of excess which can go inside the hot end, as a major upgrade over the factory tubing.
As a final statement, I unloaded the filament from my S5 before the direct drive upgrade, and removed the stock PTFE tube. I slide the distorted filament into the factory tube, and it went, though there was resistance pushing and pulling it. I couldn't even get it into the Capricorn tubing - that's when I realized Capricorn tubing has a smaller diameter than the white factory stuff. I snipped the distorted end of the filament, and all was fine again. In the photo, you can see the inner diameter comparison.
Final thoughts - this is the best tubing out their for your 3d printer. If you have a direct drive unit, this will be helpful in the hot end and potentially at the extruder. If you have a Bowden, this will improve the filament feeding accuracy. If you have an all metal hot end the tubing won't help beyond that; if you do NOT have an all metal hot end this should go inside your hot end as soon as you are able - though I personally would wait until you have a clog and have to disassemble - as I said above, be leery of messing with your hot end as it is so easy to break the thermistor wires. It's also easy to introduce leaks, etc. if you don't tighten your nozzle or the parts adequately.
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5.0 out of 5 stars All Hail Capricorn, King of the Tubing!
By Gary Garland on June 8, 2020
The PTFE tubing shipped with your 3d printer can get the job done...for a while. Capricorn tubing is considered THE standard in 3d printing tubing. I have 2 printers, a Sovol SV01 and a Creality CR-10 S5 and they have both benefited from this worthy upgrade.
The package comes with between 39 and 40 inches of tubing (was hard for me to measure), along with 4 Bowden connectors, a great tubing cutter, and a Capricorn card that was thick cardboard, and I wasn't sure if it was to be used as a weapon, z bed offset, or what. Anyway, I didn't try the Bowden connectors so I can't opine if they are an upgrade or same as OEM - 2 were smaller (for the extruder) and 2 were larger (leading to the hot end).
I first used a whopping 19 mm of the tubing for my Sovol guide - on at least my original hotend, if you didn't use this little piece you simply could not print TPU - retractions would cause it to bunch up. 19 mm later, i had a short guide tube between the extruder entry/guide and the heat break top. It did make it SLIGHTLY harder to feed in PLA or other filaments, after a while you get the hang of it.
Later, when I had a nice clog, i had to open the hot end completely (I recommend fiddling with your hot end as little as possible, those thermistor wires are EXTREMELY fragile). Anyway, you can see in the 4th photo, how the end of my 24.8 mm tubing was burned at the end. Per the website, Capricorn XS tubing's melting point is "up to 340" where OEM tubing can be as low as 220, and their TL tubing (which I've never seen) has a melting point up to 300.
I generally print my Sovol SV01 at between 220 and 250 depending upon material. The Capricorn tubing has a curve to it from shipping, and when you want it straight it can fight you a bit, but should relax and straighten with time.
Since I have installed the tubing in my Sovol, I've had virtually no jams, and I'm confident the higher temps won't break down the tubing. Note, if you want to print nylon or other high temp materials, the Capricorn tubing will break down, so for those you need an all metal hot end (which can be more prone to clogging for PLA, PETG, etc.)
Regarding my CR-10 S5, the machine is still shiny, and I've only printed about 20 hours with it, but I made an "executive decision" - I don't like Bowden tubes. The Capricorn tubing would make a worthy upgrade versus the factory tubing - it is narrower, more precise, and has internal lubricants that allow material to move better - but I personally liken the Bowden tube design, like trying to light a match from a matchbox that is 4 or more feet away. Note, some folks say you can print better quality prints with a Bowden design - less weight on the head, etc. and you can dial in the settings - and I don't disagree - but for ME, direct drive is the name of the game. I converted my S5 to a direct drive, and replaced the Bowden tube in the hot end (similar to the Sovol 24.8 mm piece) with the 68.7mm piece shown in the photo.
The included tubing cutter is a sharp razor type of blade that will destroy you if you aren't careful - however, if you mark the tubing with a magic marker or similar, you can cut that mark directly in half if you desire - it is accurate, and more importantly, it doesn't crush the tube.
As a trial, i used sharp wire cutters, and they cut but deformed the tube - the tubing cutter was able to snip off the deformed part and make it snug again. I would only use the tubing cutter for Capricorn or PTFE tubing, so it stays nice and sharp.
Even if you use the Capricorn as a Bowden tube, you will have plenty of excess which can go inside the hot end, as a major upgrade over the factory tubing.
As a final statement, I unloaded the filament from my S5 before the direct drive upgrade, and removed the stock PTFE tube. I slide the distorted filament into the factory tube, and it went, though there was resistance pushing and pulling it. I couldn't even get it into the Capricorn tubing - that's when I realized Capricorn tubing has a smaller diameter than the white factory stuff. I snipped the distorted end of the filament, and all was fine again. In the photo, you can see the inner diameter comparison.
Final thoughts - this is the best tubing out their for your 3d printer. If you have a direct drive unit, this will be helpful in the hot end and potentially at the extruder. If you have a Bowden, this will improve the filament feeding accuracy. If you have an all metal hot end the tubing won't help beyond that; if you do NOT have an all metal hot end this should go inside your hot end as soon as you are able - though I personally would wait until you have a clog and have to disassemble - as I said above, be leery of messing with your hot end as it is so easy to break the thermistor wires. It's also easy to introduce leaks, etc. if you don't tighten your nozzle or the parts adequately.
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