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Showing 1-10 of 105 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 109 reviews
on February 17, 2016
IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE PROGRAMMING THIS REMOTE, READ THIS !!!

case study: I was programming this remote to 4 z-wave switches (one on each of the 4 buttons). 3 of them linked up perfectly fine on the first try. The 4th one pretended like it linked, all the lights blinked according to the instructions. but when I pushed the on or off buttons, nothing happened. no light blink on the remote, no switch activation, nothing. As it turns out, the last one I tried that wasn't working had a node ID of 39. I even tried adding a new one in as I thought that the switch might be bad. The new replacement one came in with Node ID 40.

This remote can only address devices with node IDs 1-24 !!! Pay very close attention. I struggled with this for weeks, called so many people, finally figured it out with the help of some folks. the one switch that wasn't working had node ID 39... and its replacement was 40. unfortunately it took an act of congress to get the hub reset so I could rebuild the network and reassign the NODE IDs, but once I did, it works like a dream. All the switches are now less than 24 in the network, and everything responds perfectly now.

NOTE that the remote itself DOES NOT have to be ID under 24. Only the target devices. SO....if you are building a new network from scratch, be sure to include the target devices first, and add this remote last so that it doesn't burn one of the precious lower IDs.

IF YOU ARE USING ADT PULSE : This device WILL work with the system. You can include the remote on the ADT network thru the pulse web portal with no problems. Just be certain that your existing switches and plugs are NODE ID up to 24. If you have an existing network in place and you have switches above ID 24, those switches will not work with this remote. To fix this problem, you must rebuild your entire pulse "site". This will completely erase everything in your profile, including floorplans, names, devices, everything. The process is complicated and time consuming, and this is a very foreign concept to ADT support, so you're going to have to explain it to them. What you have to do is this:

1. Call ADT and have them dispatch a technician to your location. Yes, you MUST have an installer on site. This cannot be done from remote. Explain to the person on the phone that you need ot have your site deleted and recreated from scratch. When they ask why, explain that you have a complex zwave network that requires specific configuration and you need to reset the pulse gateway to accommodate for the setup.
2. When the technician is on site, the tech must call in and have the support person completely delete your site from the ADT system. This step is absolutely required. The node ID table resides in the netgear pulse hub, and it must be reset completely in order to wipe out the node ID table. The ONLY way to do this is to completely eliminate the site and reinstall it from scratch.
3. The technician will then rebuild the network from scratch, just as if they were installing the system for the first time. They will have to re-activate the system with the phone support folks. The tech will ask you for your primary code on the panel in order to put it into programming mode. Knowing you must do this, my suggestion is to reprogram 1234 into the panel so that you can tell the tech 1234 and not give out your main code. The tech can help you do this before starting the reset.
4. All of your Pulse devices will need to be re-added again. Be sure to run the "reset" command on each one before including it in the new network. This will re-assign the Node IDs starting from 2.
5. after you have added all your devices back in, then add the remote in this page into the system.
6. yes I know this is a long and huge pain to do, but the idea of NODE IDs is so foreign to ADT support people, that they have no concept of what to do with it. You basically have to tell them step by step what to do, and the entire time the tech will be looking at you like you have no idea what you are talking about. They just don't do this kind of work regularly.

Hope the month of beating my head on a brick wall makes it easier for you !!!

I don't know what the reset steps are for other zwave hubs out there, I only know the ADT system because I have it and had to figure this out myself. So, if you have a different gateway then please refer to the manual or service provider for information on how to reset the gateway.
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on June 11, 2013
This is a scene controller. You will need another controller (like the http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V6RW0/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_4 or http://www.amazon.com/Mi-Casa-Verde-VeraLite-Controller/dp/B007005364/ref=pd_sim_hi_7) to program your devices and transfer those settings to this device.

The buttons are nicely done, and give a good tactile indication that they have been pressed. The finish of the materials and overall quality is excellent. The device I received has up and down arrows on the left and right of the four top buttons.

This would make a great second controller in a situation where you want a 3-way switch but do not want to rewire the room. Just replace the original switch with a Z-wave switch, and use this controller in a second location.
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on November 4, 2014
paired with smartthings hub. No need for primary remote.

I just bought this keypad controller and was able to program it without using any remote as a primary. All i did for the first (replication) step was:
- press add+remove (from instructions)
- press off buttons 1,2,3,4 (from instructions)
- when orange light was blinking, i used my android device's Smartthings app to search for a new device.
- the app found the controller as a 'z-wave remote', and the light flashed green on the controller
- proceeded as normal to add groups and scenes
NOTE: the devices i was controlling had already been added to my home network using my Android app.
I can now control multiple [z-wave outlet connected] lamps in my bedroom using this controller that i placed at the entrance. Works like a charm.

Good luck
22 comments| 41 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
My experience is good and bad. First, I use WINK, and had a hard time connecting it. The app won't recognize the bar code, and there's nothing in the list for it. I experimented and discovered using the Lights / then GE In Wall Smart Switch that it linked immediately. Now you can't see this in your device list, so you have to do a manual programming for it. Before mounting it on the wall, take it around to the switches you want to add to a group or scene and connect them there. I have the Leviton switches, and appliance switch modules. Follow the included instructions and they connect just fine. (Press and hold the "add" and "remove" switches together until the amber light comes on, then press "add" and release, the "group" and release, and then the right toggle switch you want, then on the Leviton switches, hold the up paddle in until it turns amber. Let it go, and press it once quickly. It will add the switch). Do this for as many switches as you want in your groups and you're done. Works nicely. Now, I was not able to program any scenes, but didn't spend much time on it because I just wanted to use it for four straight on / off switches. Maybe it's something with the linking as a GE In Wall Smart Switch. I did follow the instructions but couldn't make that part work. Maybe someone else will have that answer.

Now I wanted to mount this in an in wall box that was not being used. unfortunately the holes for the screws in this switch do not match the holes in the standard junction box. I had to improvise but made it work. I hope this helps others to make it work.
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on January 4, 2016
I have a small SmartThings network to control my lights and locks. I have several lights in my basement in various rooms with switches that require you to walk through the dark room to turn them on. This solved that perfectly. I can now control all my basement lights from my main basement room and turn them on before I walk into the sub-rooms.

Just be aware that this is a secondary controller. It does not identify itself as having button or switch capabilities. You will not be able to assign buttons on this device using SmartThings SmartApps. Instead, you add this device to your "My Things" list as a secondary controller so that this device can see other devices on your network (again, it's a secondary controller). Then you use this device itself to add one or more lights or devices to each of the buttons. Once I understood that, I actually found the documentation helpful in setting my basement up.
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on March 23, 2013
I bought a few of these and they were working fine until I ran into some devices that it would not control even though the green light flashed like it was programmed.

I spent a week talking to my systems support team and they said it should work.

It turns out if any of your devices have a NodeID higher than 32 this switch will not control them. This should be made a lot more clear in the manual and the product description.

So if you have have a lot of Z Wave devices you may not want to buy this switch.

The good is it works really well for all the other devices. Unfortunately for me the devices I want to control happen to be the ones with the highest node ids.
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on July 10, 2013
I'd give it a 5 star if the programming buttons were somehow hidden under a flap or something. My 4-year old punched them a few times and disabled the controls. Re-setup is not difficult.

The only caveat: You'd need a primary z-wave enabled controller to first setup up your network. Z-wave set it up like this for security reasons; you don't want your neighbors to turn off your lights, or vice-persa. Once you set up your network on the primary, then you can download the network setting to this controller, your secondary.

The directions work. Follow them carefully. The only issue was getting the node, i.e. the Z-wave wall switch, to send the signal the first time during programming. I had to hit the Z-wave wall switch 20x to get the green light to flash on this controller. I had the same issue with the primary controller setup as well.

Overall, it works well and is very thin. The mounting tape allows installation pretty much anywhere. It looks like a real wall switch. Responsive. On/off control flawlessly. The only issue other issue is that the face plate click off with little effort.
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on March 2, 2015
Does pretty much exactly what I want. Also it's super thin and light, and you can just mount it with double stick tape to the wall anywhere you want and it doesn't stick out any more than a regular light switch cover plate. Very cool. Like all Z-Wave devices the programming is a little bit tedious and don't throw away the instructions because you have to do the steps in exactly the right order. Sometimes I hit a button not quite firmly enough and nothing happens, so the switches could be a bit better. It will actually make a soft clicking sound but not switch on, unless you push down more firmly. If you look at the unit a little light on the switch comes on if you press the button firmly enough, so there is some feedback. You learn to press firmly, but still, the switches need to be improved.

You can assign 'scenes' and multiple fixtures and brightness levels to each switch pair. For instance, I have one button turn on the kitchen lights fully, and the next button to turn on the den lights fully. A third button turns all the lights in both rooms to about a 50% dim level for a kind of late evening movie watching "scene". Simple, flexible, no smart phone or wifi complications necessary.

I also wish they would print simple programming instruction on the back, or had a card insert that slipped in and out of slot or something. If you want to add a light to a scene later, dig out the manual and figure it out all over again.

This is so thin because it uses two thin quarter-sized button cell type batteries (CR2032). I have used it for six months and the batteries are fine, but I have no idea how long they will last.
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on March 3, 2016
I have an older home and this had made my life so easy and has helped me bypass the need, at least temporarily, to have to get new switches installed. My GoControl bulbs are VERY reliable Smart bulbs, and paired with this, my lights are much easier to control!

These are VERY handy to have around the house. I used them with my GoControl Z-Wave light bulbs and my Aeon Lab appliance z-wave switches and they work beautifully. As is explained, this does not work as a standalone switch. You must have the devices synced up with some sort of hub, whether you have SmartThings, Vera, Wink, etc. I personally have Nexia from when I had a Schlage lock. I'm looking to switch, but it works fine.

The only thing I'd say is a little frustrating is that this is difficult to explain to others to use, especially people who aren't technologically savvy. So, I try to leave it in "scene" mode so that my "groups" aren't getting turned on and off accidentally. Other people have mentioned they don't like not being able to control just one device, but you can, simply by putting it in a group by itself. Yes, that means devoting an entire button to one device, but it works fine.
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on January 16, 2015
Having many GE/Jasco paddle switches (GE 45609) installed I ran into a problem in a three way setup (GE 45609 and auxillary GE 45610) where I had one switch box with all of the necessary wires for the GE 45609 (line, load, neutral, traveler and ground) but for some reason was missing a neutral wire where the auxillary GE switch would go.

Those familiar with the GE Jasco 45609 know that you can get the main switch to work without the auxially in a three way set up which is what I did. However, I needed a solution to create a switch in the second location as the GE Auxillary will not work without the neutral.

This device was the answer to my problem. It is one of if not the only battery powered zwave wall switch solutions that I could find. I was able to successfully pair this controller with Smartthings using other reviewers guidance:

Press and hold Add and Remove until the orange light flashes. Then press the left side of each button (the down arrow) one at a time from top to bottom. The orange light will turn solid and it is ready to add to smartthings. From there it is the usual steps to add the device to smartthings. It should recognize it as a Z Wave Remote.

Once added follow the instruction booklet to add devices into a group. Now, I am able to control not only the problematic three way switch from this device but was able to create groups to control nearby lights with the other 3 buttons. Yes, smartthings will know the current state of your light after using this device.

Note- I am aware of the "32 node" issue. This was not a problem for me. Smartthings assigns node IDs 01,02...10 then starts with a lettering scheme 0A, 0B...etc before going to 11,12. I thought devices that were assigned a node id with a letter might be a problem but they were not. Added to the groups just like the others with no problems.

4 stars instead of 5 because it isnt the most attractive natural looking switch and if you want to install it on a switch box using screws the device is oddly too long to use both screw holes.
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