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The board is well built, very strong and heavy. It looks very expensive in the flesh.
It has the debugging readout, overclock button, clear cmos button and reset at hand which saves a great amount of time. Nice heat sinks on the vrms. I tightened the vrm screws before installing to be on the safe side. Temps under 50c most of the time on stock while gaming. No more than 65c when overclocking at 4.8 and 4.9 Ghz so very cool. My Noctua D15s fan blows straight at the vrm heat sink which is why I prefer air coolers.
RGB lighting is in full force here with lights everywhere. Full customization of lighting zones are great but the software is rubbish. It's a better idea setting your color in the bios and not installing the Gigabyte app center which is awful imo.
Onboard audio is very good with both realltek and sound blaster built in. There's plenty of bass available which is surprising. It has a headphone amp for the front jack only with three levels available. If you want 7.1 headphone audio then you have to plug your headphone into the rear speaker port and then enable 'switch output speaker to headphone' on the Sound Blaster 720 application. You then get more options for headphone output but you can no longer use the amp in the realtek application.
Not a problem for lower impedance headphones but may not be suitable for high Ohms headphones. I have a AE-5 sound card with more or less the same software but has dual amps so the onboard will go unused in my case but if you don't have a sound card already, you may not need one.
It has Killer Nic ethernet which I didn't bother with. Intel nic will do just fine.
I did run into a problem when I populated the board with a gpu, sound card and four sata connections. When I put the sound card in, one of my drives disappeared. I had to swap sata ports and leave port 0 and 1 empty. I think it has something to do with the pcie lanes and coffee lake cpu's not having that many. I could be wrong.
The other thing was when I had everything up and running, I had minimum processor on 5 percent on high performance power plan which would down clock when I was overclocking. When I updated the bios it wouldn't down clock and my 8700k would boost to 4.7 Ghz while idling and lower when on load. I tried everything to fix it until I reverted back to the original bios which was F3. The latest bios was F5e and was problematic so avoid it.
Other than that I think that this is an awesome motherboard. If anyone needs help, leave a comment.
I am never really happy with boards that cover up heat-sinks with stickers, but lets face it, most of the manufacturers do that these days. *sighs*
I was disappointed with the block that "simplifies" the insertion of the case connections to the motherboard ( hdd led, power switch and so on ) in it sounded such a great idea but it was honestly more difficult to use that than to fiddle around using the old method - without the header.
The SSD/NVMe heatsink is completely useless. It didn't even contact with the chips on the SSD/NVMe. There was a good 2mm or so gap. Not the worst thing in the world, though, I just had to add my own heatsink. I used the Gelid Solutions SubZero. Just a shame that Gigabyte couldn't come up with something similar.
NVMe’s can run a little warm. The location of all the M.2 sockets is poor. All of them are too close to the graphics card. One is directly under the graphics card, which is the worst place it can be. The one by the CPU is directly above the graphics backplate. Even the lowest is not very far from the graphics card. I found in experiments this did make an impact on the NVMe temperature. The best location for the NVMe is in the lowest M.2 socket. It made no difference when the system was idle, but when the graphics card gets going it makes a very significant difference. Even when the graphics card was just 50 degrees, in the M.2 socket above the graphics card the NVMe went up ten degrees even when it was doing nothing. Obviously the heat was just coming off the graphics card. In the lowest M.2 slot, the temperature actually fell under system load. The air circulation around the lowest socket just seems to be a lot better than the top socket even though there was a card directly above it so when the system got hot the front fans picked up and made a huge difference to the lowest M.2. Using a PCIE adapter also seemed to reduce the overall temperature of the NVMe. By about five degrees. Again, it was in a better location to get cool air from the front case fans. So all in all if you want the coolest NVMe use an adapter. But if you don't want to use one of those then use the lowest M.2 socket. If you need to use two, then an adapter AND the lowest socket. Either way, never use the middle socket and only use the top socket if you have to. Overall it's a great board. It has everything you could need, including two network connections, which is rather handy. Mainly the board is of course for overclocking, otherwise why would you want all the extra features(?), but I have to say that I bought it because the Ultra Gaming 1.0 has VRM issues. When I wrote this the 2.0 was not available, which has better VRM circuitry. During installation the most important thing you need to know is to remove the plastic audio cover. It's not shielded so is just cosmetic. It's held in place by two small black screws under the board so once the board is in place you can't easily remove it. And you should remove it because it gets in the way of some pcie cards, especially graphics cards. Amazingly, especially the Aorus 1080ti!! This board has some nice touches like a power switch so you can power up the board even if your case power switch is not working. Some diagnostic displays and so on. Honestly though you are unlikely to use most of the nice touches unless you are overclocking. The supplied software is comprehensive albeit I didn't load most of it in. I just wanted the Windows BIOS update and RGB Fusion, which allows you to change the leds. At the moment you should update the BIOS when you get a board, because there are changes going in as we speak because the boards are fairly new. I actually wasn't very impressed with Fusion. It's simple to use and effective but it seemed to get a little confused with the graphics card ( which is also Gigabyte ). It controlled all things Gigabyte but didn't seem to quite get the graphics card right. How can I describe it? It seemed to change the colour of the graphics LED's but didn't change their mode ( pulse, wave, etc ) . Not that it matters, someplace there is utility specifically to program up the graphics card. I haven't looked in to that yet, but when I do I will update this review. The fan control really is excellent but since I have a Corsair water cooler, I use LINK instead. Almost a shame really. For air cooling I would definitely use the Gigabyte fan control. So, all in all, a great board. You would expect that at this price though.
Good specification and performance but a few issues let it down.
Coil noise - through the speakers if I have the volume up loud - it makes the noise whenever I move the mouse - there is also a general background crackle but it's faint. This is disappointing considering the board has a high quality audio chip, which is the main reason I bought this board and not a cheaper Z370 board.
DP output variable - when I bought it, it would not work properly with DP but I had to use it with either DVI-D or HDMI as I got no display output with DP during POST and the first part of booting an OS until the log in prompt appeared at the final stage of booting; regardless of which OS I used. I had to press the restart button and shut down button a large number of times, doing my drives no good, as I was working blind for the first few hours and thought my mobo was toast. I spent a LOT of time with their technical support in Taiwan trying to identify the cause of the problem, having to reboot several times attached to each DP port on the PC and two different DP ports on the monitor and test every permutation. This got me nowhere and certain symptoms suggested it was an issue with the monitor, although Asus just blamed Gigabyte and said it was a BIOS issue. It was probably a problem with the BIOS, not my particular settings (it would do the same thing with default BIOS settings). I implemented a workaround with various specific BIOS settings but it then only produced a display output in BIOS and booting 80% of the time. I gave up in the end. It is nearly a year later and the latest F10 BIOS update has not fixed this issue. It seems to occur after shutting down Windows now. Fast start up is disabled. So I just stick with HDMI which in 2018 is ridiculous.
Poor Windows SW - Another complaint is the poor quality of the Gigabyte windows software and their utility program. It would not even start in Windows 8.1, and in Windows 10 it worked for a while, but after running what was supposedly the latest version of an Intel OC program (I only ever did mild OC) - the version on Gigabyte's download page did not work - I was subsequently unable to run half the Gigabyte applications and those that did run had features or data blanked out. Gigabyte support said they had no problem on their old system running old BIOS and told me to wipe my Windows 10 installation and start again. I decided to not bother using their Windows SW and instead just edit all the BIOS settings manually in the BIOS as at least it always worked then.
So overall, quite good although the coil whine does still p1$$ me off. I would only chose Gigabyte because of one blogger but in hindsight I'd buy an Asus next time and perhaps not be an early adopter of a new chipset. I like the Aorus logo and the RGB is cool even if I have a non-glass paneled case lol.
Holy Sh*t I love this board!! What amazing value for money compared to some of the other boards!! The only annoying thing is they all have different RGB systems, so I've got the Kraken Water Cooler, glowing blue, the board - which I don't think I've ever seen so many LED's on something, also lights up blue but when you use something like flashing or breathing or change colour you then have to manually change the Asus GPU LED's, the ASUS GPU LED's, the NZXT LED's - one controller would be handy - but then it makes you want to buy all one brand.
Brilliant board, has the best quality vrm's available currently which will give you higher and stabler overclocks. RGB isn't for everyone but if you like it then this is the board to get, no other board comes close to it.
Has a decent amount of ports, enough for my usual peripherals and my rift at the same time, a nice added feature is the vrm fan which is included if your case does not have ample airflow to keep it cooled passively.
Audio is also better than the majority of over boards currently out there, i use a dedicated soundcard but if you use onboard this is another area it excels in.
This was a replacement for a board purchased in July. Original was sent back due to 2 faulty ram slots preventing dual channel operation. This one is going to be sent back because of broken/bent USB header pins. I might just be unlucky but its making me lose confidence in this board, which apart from this seemed to be very good. Suspect some QA issues at Gigabyte perhaps?
Been able to overclock the i7 8700k to stable 5.2ghz with the h80i watercooling. Overall the motherboard is great. Little disappointed with the ai lighting, as can’t custiomise the mobo led color from defaults for intelligent temp. The default color looks crap. Can customise leds for light show. But not really bothered about that. Would have really liked to have control of the intelligent lighting. Other than that it’s a great board.
Make no mistake, this is one of the top 5 Z370 boards available. If you need a top of the line board, it's amazing value for money.
I read a review about clearance for certain air coolers being a problem, but my Noctua NH-U14S fits with room to spare. Plenty of space for RAM, and don't even need to use low profile RAM with this cooler, unlike many other boards.
As for overclocking, got my 8700k to 4.9GHz @1.3V stable using the board's automatic settings. Haven't needed to play around with it at all or try anything myself.
If you plan on heavily OC'ing/delidding or setting up a whole custom loop, the Aorus Gaming 7 is definitely one of the boards you need to consider.
Superb higher-end Z370 board, visually stunning with all that RGB lighting too (can of course be turned off if it's not your thing).
Only criticism I have is the included m.2 heatsink isn't very effective, not too keen on the way it looks either. I chose to replace it with an EK M.2 heatsink, better looking (imho) and certainly better performing.