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Showing 1-10 of 155 reviews(Verified Purchases). See all 184 reviews
on April 16, 2013
I'm new to this. I've never transferred anything before. After reading reviews about many brands, I chose this one. I was a bit nervous because of some of the reviews, so I did a lot of research before I started. I also purchased her book. Here are my suggestions and results:

PRINTING: Put a bright post-it on the package, right on the flap where you open it to remove a sheet to print on. Write "INVERT" on it. If not, you'll discover the wisdom of this the first time you forget to invert your image before you print it up.

CUTTING: When cutting out a square object, cut straight lines just outside your image. It's better to leave a little white around it, than to try to cut it ALL off, and cut off part of your transfer. The glue from a slim white line around your square object won't be noticeable.

Glue does show some: I found that with straight cuts and square corners the glue will be more obvious-looking than if you have wavy cuts and rounded corners. I cut in and out around letters of words (not real close), but only partially in between lines of words (so they will stay together in one piece). I was satisfied with how it turned out, but, yes, you can see the glue, barely. To me, it's acceptable. Might not be for others. If you have large areas of white in your project and you glue onto white fabric, the white section of your transfer will be less white than the fabric. I'm okay with that because the alternative would have been to cut out large sections of my image with an exacto knife and I didn't want to bother. The glue was more noticeable on some transfers than others.

PREP: I used a centering-ruler to center my transfers on my squares. Mine is Incra-Rules. There are probably other ways to do this. But it was very helpful to me rather than eye-balling it (perfectionist that I am). There are cheaper centering rulers out there than mine. I didn't tape anything down, and had no problems with the transfers sliding around or moving on me.

One problem I found is that you can't see through the backing so it's difficult to keep your line of writing straight, especially if you've cut closely in and out around the letters. If the backing paper had a 1/8" grid printed on it, you could easily apply your transfer straight, but once you've trimmed closely to the writing or image, you have a wavy edge that's difficult to judge properly. Before I cut them out, I used a pencil and ruler on my cutting board to draw both horizontal and vertical lines on the back which I could use to keep my images straight. This wasn't necessary with square objects, but it was with items that were trimmed in any other shape other than a perfect square. With tiny transfers, my homemade grid would sometimes get cut off in the trimming. I REALLY WISH THE MANUFACTURER WOULD ADD THE ADDITION OF GRID MARKS. It would have saved so much time and made it much easier to avoid crooked transfers.

IRONING: Definitely use the silicone release paper in the pack, and perhaps order some extras. My ironing board is firm and works fine. (I tried a more firm surface and it didn't work at all, so don't overdo the firmness thing.)

I suggest you print up some practice images, and try them out before you begin your main project. I printed all my images in miniature on one sheet (¼ size). (I will use them to make a mini-quilt when I am done). Transferring these mini images was a great way to learn how to do this, and get the system down. Added bonus: adorable little mini-quilt I'll give as a gift.

I tried a shorter time (90 sec.), but when the back comes off, the paper is supposed to feel relatively smooth. At 90 seconds, it wasn't so smooth, so I increased the time. I finally arrived at 2 min. 30 seconds as my choice for pressing. Do use a timer. That silicone sheet really keeps the fabric from frying. Some might call this overkill, but it worked for me. Practice first, and find out what works for you and your iron.

I purchased the iron that she recommended on her website, a dry iron from Vermont Country Store. So glad that I don't have steam holes that might interfere with a proper transfer, but I don't think it gets super hot (maybe that's why I felt the need for extra time).

I pressed firmly and kept the iron moving pretty much after the first few seconds. If your transfer fits neatly under the iron, you may not feel you have to move it at all, but the iron will leave an `iron' imprint on the fabric if you don't; so move the iron around a bit to avoid the imprint.

Overall, I think that a hot iron, a firm but cushioned surface (like an ironing board), and length of time are more critical than pressing hard, but I did press pretty firmly...just in case.

Keep the tweezers handy to pull off the hot transfer backing.

RESULTS: I had no problems at all with the transfer. I did about 18 mini pictures and about 20 mini "verses" of writing. Then I repeated with the full-size transfers. Everything worked exactly like it was supposed to. They looked great: very bright and clear; maybe not "photo-perfect", but spectacularly close, especially since this is fabric and not photo paper. I was very, very happy with it.

Besides white fabric, I also transferred onto beige, light blue, and patterned fabrics (all light colored). Mostly this was just lettering and they all turned out great, even on the metallic patterned fabric. I did a practice "photo" on a colored fabric, but I wasn't happy with it and decided I should do it on white instead and appliqué it onto the colored square it was made for. It came out much better that way.

The transfer isn't shiny; it's matt. Only when you get it at a certain angle to the light will you see a bit of the glue if you left significant amounts of white. It's most obvious around my lettering where I didn't cut super close. It's totally an individual call as to whether this is acceptable or not. Personally, I don't have any problems with it.

HAND: The transferred image will be stiffer than the rest of the fabric and gets slightly less so after washing. But it still feels much more stiff than the regular fabric...and is also more slick. This doesn't bother me, but if you want a completely "fabric" feel, this isn't it.

WASHING:
Wait 3 days before washing. I think I read that somewhere in my research.
I printed up some mini practice pieces for washing and numbered them with a marker. I washed one with laundry soap, and saw some definite fading. More than I would have liked to see, especially dark blue areas. It was less obvious on a red/green transfer, but still enough to notice. (But that said, they still looked terrific.) There was no running or bleeding. I think fabric artists who don't wash their projects will have no problem with this product. Those making quilts and clothing that they expect to wash may be disappointed if it fades on them. I am making a seasonal memory quilt, and don't plan to wash it often (and maybe never, if I'm afraid it will fade).

TAP produces brighter colors than other transfer methods I've looked into; so if it fades a little, it may be no worse than any of the others, and just might still be brighter. Will it continue to fade with future washings? I don't know yet.

Overall, I'm satisfied (ecstatic, actually) except for the slight fading issue, which I've yet to find out about. I don't recommend regular laundry detergent. Please check out the images that I uploaded for this listing. One shows an original scan, transfer and washed transfers. Also an image with white left in the interior of the transfer; one dark image, and one with writing overlapping the image. I hope this helps someone.

(I suggest you buy her book if you're interested in transferring onto canvas, tile, wood, paper, Lutradur, metal, clay, glass, or mica, as she goes into more detail than you'll find in the package instructions.)

PS I've added a comment about washing (click on comments).

UPDATE: I had some leftover transfer sheets in my pack. I used them about 4 months after opening the package. I've noticed a quality difference. The transfer didn't transfer perfectly, although most of it did (I did it twice with same results). It doesn't seem as bright in color, and it seems to be "rubbing" off and getting lighter or spotty and grainy-looking, even though I try to never touch it to anything. It seemed to be doing this even as I was working with it, sewing it to a purse, and continues to do so. I don't feel it looks as good or will last as long as my first transfers. I think this product degrades quickly with age, so I recommend not buying more than you need. If you have extra sheets, use them up quickly on future projects. Just my opinion: Used fresh, they will last; used old, they may go bad before you finish your project.
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on March 14, 2016
If there was a negative 100 stars, I would choose it. This is fraudulent advertising. I made a memory quilt. Followed the directions explicitly. Used high count white cotton. Spent over 3 weeks of intensive labor sewing the quilt. Used the TAP for old photos. Ironed them on as instructed and also as noted on several You Tube videos. I was short 3 sheets so I ordered more. While waiting I used the net to look for washing instructions and to my horror, I found several reviews DO NOT TO BUY THIS PRODUCT AS THE INK WASHES OUT. I hurriedly ran 2 copies of pictures when the new paper came, ironed it numerous times, place it in cold water with NO soap...and all the ink started washed out. The pictures look like ghosts. I bought some gentle care Woolite and washed the second picture. It started showing red streaks all over. I have cried and cried at the lost time, the lost effort , the lost money and a birthday gift that cannot be washed so it will end up in the the trash! I am considering a lawsuit for false advertisement.
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on November 18, 2013
Wasted my money! bought this because it was described as the holy grail of transfer papers on a website. I sure don't know what I am doing wrong, I read the instructions, followed them exactly and ruined three canvas bags. I have a brand new, very expensive iron - that gets very hot, so I know it was't that. only half the transfer stuck to the canvas, and it was soft canvas as I washed and dried (with no softners) I ironed for at least 5 minutes, as Lesley says you can't over iron, pressing firm if not hard. I guess I will go back to the plastic looking transfers, at least they stick. I really can't believe this product gets such great reviews.
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on September 15, 2016
This product is okay, but it does leave a visible film on the material. So, be sure to trim carefully. Also, and this is very important, this product does NOT work AT ALL on dark material! I wish I had been made aware of this before trying to use it on a special quilting project. I read all the instructions that come with the product and nowhere did it mention this. I ended up ruining my quilt project because of this in an attempt to transfer white lettering onto black fabric. The film transferred just fine, but the letters did not. So now I am left with a big blotch of unsightly film in the middle of my black fabric, and removing this section of fabric from my project will be a nightmare. Another warning to heed - make sure that the surface underneath the material is completely FLAT and FIRM. A padded ironing board is not sufficient. Place a cutting board, or some other firm, flat surface that can withstand the heat of your iron directly beneath the material you are transferring onto. The pressure from the iron must be completely uniform and consistent. Otherwise, the transfer will be inconsistent.
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on April 11, 2017
Great product, but it being out of stock since last year has been a real drag. I use this product for items that I sell and there is no other product on the market that works quite the same way. I have customers asking for items that I cannot give them because the transfer paper is not available. I do hope that problem is resolved soon and never happens again. I have found the product to be very user friendly. Colors transfer nicely and quickly. Unlike other transfer materials, this one does not leave a shiny or plastic looking finish. It's as though it melts right into the fabric to almost give the appearance of the image having been printed on the fabric. Not much practice is needed, but trim your image as close to the edge as possible to get the best look. I have only used this on fabric. I have noticed that it works best on tightly woven, but not too thick fabrics. Cottons, muslin, etc. work best. I also found that the images will fade with laundering. Supposedly, the formula is being "reworked" causing the delay in availability, so maybe the fading issue will lessen. It is a good transfer product, but it's not perfect. Still, I found it to be better than all the others I have tried.
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on February 12, 2014
I discovered TAP last September, and I have FINALLY figured out the tricks to transferring well.

First of all if you want to use a larger image go to: blockposters.com. Once you've got everything all printed out, make sure you are working on a firm flat surface (I use my kitchen floor). DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT iron your entire image in one swoop. Instead, work in small sections pressing down very hard. Once the transfer process starts there's no going back, and it takes awhile for the colors to set into the fabric. I start out at the bottom corner then slowly move across, then slowly move up and across. If you follow this technique you will save yourself frustration and money.

Also, don't try to rip off the tap paper if it isn't 'giving', heat it back up and slowly pull it off. Be careful not to let your iron touch any exposed parts because the ink will smear. If you start to pull up and see a small part that didn't transfer, you can usually go back over it with the tip of your iron and rub it in (for some reason this doesn't really work if the ink is red, I have no clue why).

The instructions say you can wash the fabric; but when I tried, my whole project was destroyed. I'm not sure if it was because I hadn't waited long enough for the ink to dry or because I didn't wash on a delicate cycle, but I am too scared to try again!
See tutorials on this at www.boxwoodavenue.com/blog/tap-paper-tips-and-tricks
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on May 13, 2016
Absolutely the best transfer paper for shirts available anywhere. Also, this is the only transfer paper that works with an iron instead of a heat press. Works so well with a heat press, that everything looks store bought.
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on September 26, 2014
I have purchased this product over and over again and have come to rely on it for the best quality and results. The directions are very clear and easy to follow. I leave the iron on for an extended time as the directions say you cannot over do the ironing and the longer you keep the iron on the more it helps to bond and stay when laundering. I use a large ceramic tile from the hardware store under my projects to iron on and it works great for a hard temperature proof surface. I have washed my t-shirts several times and they come out beautiful on gentle cycle with cold water and hang dry with air fluff. The design is just as nice as the day I made them! I try to fit as much design as possible per sheet and the nice thing is you don't have to be too careful about the outlines, you can cut away what you don't need!
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on May 28, 2014
This paper does not work as advertised. I ordered these based on the many positive 4 and 5 star reviews. They were a fail. I tried a dozen test runs and followed the instructions fully and carefully. I tried these on several different fabrics and materials and used a hot iron and flat base (as instructed). The photos rarely ironed on completely and even those that did had a very poor, mostly partial transfer, and an almost blurry appearance. I was very disappointed as none of the projects I tried this on were usable. It was very frustrating and I would not recommend this product. I had to simply discard the unused papers.
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on March 7, 2016
This transfer paper came via Graphics Fairy suggestion, as others have mentioned. Perhaps I was expecting too much from it, particularly on glass and wood. My efforts were met with about a 50/50 rate of acceptable image transfer. Ive achieved better results on wood with the mod podge method. I will note the one thing that I find peculiar is that when reading the multiple reviews there is almost a love or hate divide. Which to me speaks to the reliability in quality of the product, otherwise thats just too much of a variable. I also found the instructions to be too abbreviated and when reading the developer's comments about not having enough room on the packaging to put longer details so read/purchase her book, I thought it was taking advantage of buyers. Either reduce your font or spacing or provide COMPLETE instructions on the website for purchasers.
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